November 2003 - Annette Culpan

At sunset we travelled to a temple high above Nusa Dua beach for the Hindu ceremony. The famous artist Made Kiswara had been called by the God of the Ocean to bless the Balinese people and its visitors. Traditionally dressed the men were in white and gold and the women in coloured sarongs and kebaya. Incense burned as the meditation and chanting began. A dog came in and barked at the frangipani trees above, Made later reported that the dog was addressing the 'tree people'. The blessing continued on the beach at the water's edge. All were showered in young coconut milk; this was the beginning of another month in Bali.

November has been a month of looking back to acknowledge contribution and support for Kuta Remembrance Week and looking forward at what needs to happen now to enable the Trust's 2004 programme in Bali to succeed.

It was sadly not a month we visited patients in the villages and I feel useless knowing that my old friend Made will not have his dressings changed until early next year - if he lives that long. I understand that provision of a long-term solution is most important but I still find this hard.

This month I drafted the Trust's third Newsletter and put together a photographic Christmas card. These personal communications are as critical as developing a contact strategy and fundraising plan for 2004 - it's all part of laying the foundation for financial sustainability.

I also looked into the complex process (and risks) of importing large quantities of medicines to Bali. Indications so far are that no amount of paperwork will get the supplies through, but money, bribery or contacts in customs just might. Corruption seems to be the norm in South East Asia and permeates through nearly every level in Bali.

Police are forever trying to stop me when driving to extort funds from me, and if they don't succeed, ride off with my license and car registration, only to be returned once I follow them and pay them off. Last time they tried to flag me down I ran away and the officer chased me on his motorbike in full 'chips' getup, "I am police, why you running". Why indeed I chuckled. Fifty thousand Rupiah later I had my license and rego back.

I ended my month scrubbing down shelves piled with gecko waste, sorting through stock and recording Bali inventory. It's hot work, even when the fan is on full bore it's still too darn hot!

The wet season is well and truly here. You can feel the place heaving with strange animals and new life. Reptiles, spiders, frogs and animals I have never seen are coming out from every hole and cranny - I have discovered that a new, faster and uglier wet season gecko exists which amazes me - last time I looked, a one-foot reptile shook his tail and ran up the nearest coconut tree. Yesterday our gardener removed a dead snake from our power box. It's moments like these in this seething tropical paradise when thoughts of a NZ summer and its beaches, bbq's and pohutukawa trees make me homesick for Aotearoa.

Annette

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